My opinion is that it is a waste of dry hops adding them at the start of fermentation under the assumption that biotransformation brings greater benefit than the dry hops would have had they been added later, though if you are in keg within 10-14 days I cannot reliably AB the difference so I try not to let it bother me too much! And don’t worry if you use juicy hops you’ll still get juicy flavors even if you don’t add them during fermentation.īiotransformation is a thing, but if it is beneficial is subjective. Less yeast in your beer more aromatics you’ll get. My 6 gallon batches usually get 10-12 ounces always after fermentation. I definitely notice a difference between 2 and 4. Some would say over 2lbs per bbl is a waste. I’ve seen Monkish do a 9lb per barrel DH as well. ![]() Most of the best commercial examples are dry hopped at rates around 4lbs per barrel. If you are perceiving harshness at the end of the palate that’s from water/tannins/polyphenols/yeast not from IBUs. Bitterness is perceived at the front of your palate. I add equal amounts of hops to the kettle as I do in the WP and my beers are in no way bitter. You can also use a smaller dose of biofine and don’t worry you won’t lose haze. They generally need more time at lower temps to settle out and your beer will be much much more enjoyable. The harsh bitterness and chalky taste comes from polyphenols. Transfer and carbonate.Īussie hops are especially high in polyphenol content. Crash or gradually cool as low as you can. ![]() Let climb back up to 60 and dry hop for 3 days between 60 and 65. It’s literally wasting hops.Īfter negative for diacetyl drop to 50/55/60 (depending on you yeast) with head pressure. On the recent CB&B podcast Aslin also noted that they don’t dry hop during fermentation, same with Monkish among others.
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