![]() Apart from fishing the cables through joists and down walls. ![]() So long as it doesn't split when I screw on the back boxes (yes, I'll pilot and I splashed out on oak instead of pine) this could be job done. Its now glued and clamped in place behind the 3 studs. Maybe a little persuasion? Sure enough with quite a lot of bashing it eventually snapped into place with only minor damage to the edge of the hole. Using a 3/16-inch masonry bit, drill holes every 3 inches around the damaged area, about 1 inch from the edge. Whilst pondering this I tried shoving the stick in through one of the double socket holes and it went quite far before getting wedged. I can't reach past the stone without lifting more floorboards and I can't see that going well without spending a very long time cutting nails from below (and I just sistered the accessible ends of the joists so it would be very annoying to suddenly have more access, I'd be compelled to pull it all apart and make the sisters 6" longer). PS This takes 2 people: one to hold and one to mark. The 4 x brackets that attach the radiator to the wall are drawn around once the radiator has been held level in the exact position in which it will be installed at 2nd fix. There's also a big stone jutting out below the stud that prevents me going straight up, I did already know about that. Prior to tiling (or plastering) the position of the radiator is determined ie where it will be attached to the wall. There's a 'dook' on the stud at about back-box height thats preventing me coming in at an angle from the side. Even the scrap bits that were too short to do anything useful with were good- as kindling.Well that didn't go to plan, but it went better than expected.Īrmed with a selection of strip wood from the local DIY place I tried to feed the first piece up behind the skirting board. We have used them to build garden trellises and other crafty stuff. ![]() The plaster has to go to the dump, unfortunately, but the lath strips, if you save them into long enough pieces, can be useful. Even my professional nail gun wouldn't touch them. If the studs are hardwood like ours are, you'll be predrilling and screwing to get those 2x4's sistered on. Traditionally, lath refers to the wooden slats that are nailed to the structural framing of the walls. That's too far for drywall for it to be stable and solid-feeling. Lath and plaster have been fundamental in building for centuries, providing an effective way to create sturdy, fire-resistant walls before the advent of drywall. First, you’ll repair the lath and then patch the hole. A lot of the older homes were built 24" on center. If you’re dealing with damaged lath and plaster wallsfor example gaping holes in the wall because of electrical workhere are techniques you can use to repair them. if your existing studs are further apart than 16" on center, then add in some studs between them. Trowel on a finish, or white coat, which becomes the final, smooth surface. Trowel on, then roughen the brown coat after it has set slightly. The wet plaster of this coat oozes through the gaps in the lath and becomes a mechanical key when it hardens. Sister some 2x4's onto the existing studs, and attach the drywall to those. Trowel a scratch coat of plaster onto the lath. It is an exercise in futility putting drywall on studs where plaster had been. Many nails would break off when I tried to extract them. I nicknamed it "The Big Ole Bust-It-Up Bar". Did I mention some of the boards have branches still sticking out of them? It really is like they chopped down whatever trees were there and made boards whatever size the trees were. Most of the studs are hardwood and not any particular size. Drive it through one of the adhesive-filled holes, into the lath. ![]() Thicker drywall options available, but still not as thick as lath and plaster walls. In comparison, standard drywall has a thickness of 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch. A typical lath and plaster wall may have a total thickness of 1-1.5 inches, including the wooden lath and multiple coats of plaster. We bought a 150 year old pile of a house, which is partially drywall over log cabin, and partially plaster. Clamp the wall: Place a 2-inch plastic washer over a 1 5/8-inch drywall screw. Lath and plaster walls are typically thicker than drywall walls. "Also learned that the framing under plaster walls is not suitable for drywall."
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